Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
